Another high on my
‘places-I-want-to-travel-to’ list was Andalusia; and it was not disappointing!
We started our trip in
Sevilla, famous for its tapas tradition, there is a saying about that city that
says: ‘In Sevilla you don’t eat, you tapear’.
It means so much as eating on the go; moving from one bar to the other
having a drink and the tapas which that bar is famous for.
And after arriving on
Saturday evening off course that’s what
we started with in the neighbourhood close to our hostel. We ended up in the bar which turned out to
also be the oldest bar in Sevilla from 1670.
It was packed with people, locals as well as tourists, and we got ourselves
a place at the bar from where we could see all the action. The orders came out really fast, one
bartender was slicing thin pieces of Iberico ham from a big leg all night long
and everyone’s bill was written down on the bar with chalk.
Besides the great ham my favorite tapa there was a plate of warm spinach with chick-peas and a lot of garlic! I’m not sure what kind of spinach was used, because it was so soft I guess they used a canned one.
Besides the great ham my favorite tapa there was a plate of warm spinach with chick-peas and a lot of garlic! I’m not sure what kind of spinach was used, because it was so soft I guess they used a canned one.
Spinach with chickpeas in bar El Rinconcillo, Sevilla |
The next morning we
headed for breakfast and ended up by chance in bar Alfalfa where we had the most amazing
Andalusian breakfast; tostada (toasted bread) with fresh tomato salsa, Iberico
ham and olive oil. A real treat to begin
the day with.
Andalusian breakfast with cured ham and tomato salsa on toast |
We loved Sevilla right
away for being a tapas-city but it’s
also extremely stunning to just walk around in the old streets, see the
greatest Cathedral ever (according to the Guinnes book of world records), the
Alcazar palace and, my personal favorite;
the Plaza Espana.
Beautiful Plaza Espana in Sevilla |
After 2 days we picked
up our rental car and drove to Granada, famous for the Alhambra and not so much
for the food. Nevertheless we had some
tasty and really cheap lunch in the old Islamic quarter Albayzin; 3 courses for
only 12 Euro. We got to choose from various dishes and had
the filled bell peppers, a big pan of paella for two and some kind of pudding like
desert.
There is still a big
North-African influence in the city and the food . After tea in one of the many
tea houses in the ‘little Morocco’ district we went for Moroccan inspired tapas
in the evening at Om Kalsum . We were again surprised by the great value for money we got
here; 1 bottle of Rioja wine and 7 warm tapas for only € 14,-! If only we could
eat and drink this good in the Netherlands for that less money. Also nice to
know about Granada is that it is one of the very few cities in Spain where you
still get tapas in some bars the way they used to be served; free with a
drink.
For the last days of our
one-week-is really to short- holiday we drove from Granada to Cordoba through the Route of olives (Ruta del Aceite). It’s obvious where it got this name from; as
far as we could see there were olive trees all over the place. One of the most
well known olive oils from this area is from Nunez de Prado in Baena, but because of their closure during siesta
times we did not visit it.
Olive trees all over!!! |
An absolute wonder to
see in Cordoba is the Mezquita; an old mosque turned into a church.
Even if you’re tired of
seeing a lot of churches and palaces this one will still amaze you, at least it
amazed me.
As for the culinary part
there are some typical Cordoban specialties to try and there are good
restaurants and tapas bars in the city.
The cold soup’ gazpacho’
is well known in the world but it’s Cordoba-sister soup ‘salmorejo’ is not that
well known. And I really wonder why because it’s at least as good as gazpacho;
a bit thicker (almost creamy) and with pieces of hard boiled eggs and off course
cured ham in it.
A fun place to try the
traditional recipe and then some more innovative versions is salmorejeria Umami.
They serve over 30 different salmoreja’s such as ‘avocado with
smoked salmon’ and ‘Thai’ cold soups. Even some desert-salmorejo’s although I
was not really enthusiastic about it because they were very sweet. With every
kind you can choose if you want a whole portion( racion) or a half one (media).
That is not only the case in this restaurant but in most of Andalusian
restaurants and tapas bars; really convenient for persons who cannot choose and
would love to try most of the menu ;).
Half portions of different salmorejos in Umami restaurant, Cordoba |
Another not to miss in
Cordoba thing is Bar Santos famous for it’s tortilla, which is huge!. You will
definitely see a big line with people outside, next to the Mezquita, eating there piece of tortilla and flushing
it down with a beer. You really can’t miss it even if you were not looking for
it.
Huge tortillas at bar Santos, Cordoba |
People eating their tortilla on the street in front of Bar Santos, Cordoba |
After a week of tasting
great Andalucian food, seen many beautiful things and just relaxed a bit and
enjoyed being there we ended our trip with a tour and tasting at Bodegas Alvear; a Montilla winery. Montilla
is a sherry like wine but then without extra alcohol added. Unfortunately the
tour was only in Spanish, so we didn’t really understand the process of how it
is made. But for the tasting in the end not so much Spanish words were needed;
the sweet and syrupy Ximenez (PX-sherry) was just ‘muy rico’!
Gazpacho
Based on gazpacho recipes from Allerhande & Foodies Magazine
It’s also full of healthy ingredients!
Makes 4 portions as a starter or lunch
Ingredients:
- 2 slices of white bread
- 1 kg ripe tomatoes, in pieces
- 2 bell peppers (red and yellow), seeds removed and chopped
- 1 red pepper, seeds removed and chopped
- ½ cucumber, peeled and in pieces
- 1 little onion, quartered
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 4 tablespoons extra virgin Spanish olive oil
- 4 tablespoons sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
- salt and pepper
- sugar
Remove the crusts from 2
slices of bread and soak them in cold water for about 10 minutes.
Peel and chop the
garlic. Squeeze the soaked bread.
Puree the vegetables,
garlic and squeezed bread with 4 tablespoons cold water (if needed) in a food
processor or blender.
Stir the oil and the
vinegar through the tomato soup. Season
with salt and pepper and a little sugar to taste.
Put the soup covered at
least a few hours away in the fridge, or in the freezer for at least 15 minutes if you don't have enough time.
Serve the gazpacho with
finely sliced tomato , cucumber, bell pepper and onion and maybe some croutons.